Non-Cuticle Hair
Non-Cuticle hair means
hair that has been fundamentally damaged. If you use hair care products
made for normal hair, you will be doing a major disservice. Regular
conditioners are formulated to condition the cuticle layer, a very
durable layer that is over 30% protein. Instead, you should be using a
conditioner formulated for the under-layer without cuticle.
This layer is made up of only 3% protein (10 times less!) and requires a more powerful lubricating system. The lack of a protective cuticle layer has other consequences. It allows everything to be easily absorbed into the hair – and lets vital moisture out again.
This layer is made up of only 3% protein (10 times less!) and requires a more powerful lubricating system. The lack of a protective cuticle layer has other consequences. It allows everything to be easily absorbed into the hair – and lets vital moisture out again.
Cuticle and Non-Cuticle hair are different
product types with different maintenance needs. Each one requires its own specialist product.
Moisture is the single most important
factor in determining the way your hair looks. When moisture drops
below 10-10.2% (depending on the type of hair and the level of
environmental humidity), hair will look like brittle straw as opposed
to supple green grass.
The critical moisture level is the difference between a fresh slice of bread and one left on the counter for 3 days. In the example of the straw or the stale slice of bread, if we apply the slightest pressure, they will break.The same pressure on the fresh slice of bread or the green grass shows us how malleable these materials could be.Likewise, any pressure put on dry human hair, as opposed to well-moisturized hair, will result in breakage. Dry hair leads to breakage, especially with repeated combing applied in a localized area [the crown].
Moisture = StrengthAn average strength
properties reading for Indian non-cuticle hair with a diameter of
0.055mm would be 0.22 gn/m². An average result for the same type of
hair from the same bundles, but completely soaked with tap water would
be 0.66 gn/m².
A normal value for such hair would be around 0.32 gn/m².
(gn/m² stands for Giganewtons per square meter, which is a measure of
pressure. For human hair, these figures explain the fiber’s strength –
the amount of pressure it can withstand before breaking.) The important lesson here is that moisture - any type of moisture -
will increase the strength of the hair by up to 300%. Tests conducted
have shown.that plain water is as effective as any conditioner or
leave-in moisturizer. For example, try wearing your jeans after washing
them, while they are still soaking wet and feel the roughness of the
fabric. This has to do with the swelling and increased strength of the
fabric when wet. Until the water evaporates, the denim will be
significantly stronger. The same goes for hair. The role of
conditionersConditioner will add strength, but only temporarily, just
as water will. Now we are getting to one of the major trade offs
between conditioner and water: Water will evaporate much faster, but
will not leave deposits that will weigh down your client’s hair.
Conditioner will evaporate much more slowly and contribute to the
strength of the hair for a longer time, but will leave deposits that
may weight down the hair. In hot desert climates such as in Arizona and
Nevada, it is extremely important to maintain the moisture of the hair,
especially if the client spends any time in the sun. Just a few minutes
of ultra-violet exposure on treated hair is enough to make a
significant impact. In these conditions, a very light leave-in
conditioner is highly recommended. If the client is not inclined to buy
more
products, give or sell him a very small mist bottle (2 oz will be
sufficient) filled with water and have him mist his hair a few times a
day.
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